The Way Back

~ David Willis ~ Leave a comment

Home tonight, twenty-two hundred miles from where we were just a couple of days ago.

There’s no feeling like it. The house smells like our house. Everything is where we left it. Tomorrow is for laundry and pictures and getting my head pointed at the week, and tonight is for sitting down.

Going somewhere is easy. Coming back is the hard half, and I think I finally understand why.

On the way out, the whole day runs on anticipation. You’re tired and it doesn’t matter, because there’s a thing at the end you’ve been waiting months for and every airport line is one line closer to it.

On the way back there’s nothing pulling except being done. You’ve already spent all of that. What’s left is the same lines, the same waiting, the same hauling of bags — minus the fuel.

So this time I planned the day in chunks, with slack between them, and the whole thing was built so that we never had to hurry.

Off the ship at 8:30. Shuttle. At the airport by 9:20, which was earlier than we needed and exactly the point.

Bag check. Then TSA, which is where the day does its best to get to you — herded through in a line, following instructions precisely, everybody a little bit annoyed with everybody.

I lost a multi-tool I’d forgotten was in my bag. We lost a water bottle we forgot to empty. Neither was expensive and both were entirely our fault, and I’ve noticed that being at fault does not make a confiscation feel any better.

Then we found our gate, sat down, and got a notification that we’d been moved to a different one about three blocks away. So we got back up and walked across the airport.

Then they charged ten dollars for a bottle of water, having just made us pour out one of our own (we forgot the other one). I’m not going to build a whole argument around that. It just deserves to be written down.

Here’s the thing, though. None of it landed.

We had time to sit after security. We had lunch. We got on the plane, got our bags fast on the other end, got in the car, stopped for dinner, and drove the last stretch home.

Every one of those annoyances hit a day with enough room in it to absorb them. That was the only real planning I did and it was worth more than anything else I organized on this trip.

I’ve come home from vacations before with the week already spoiled by the trip back — arrived tired and irritable with the good part somehow spent.

Not tonight. The week’s still intact.

Bed, and then Sunday.

Ready To Go Home

~ David Willis ~ Leave a comment

Last full day at sea. Tomorrow we’re in port, then an airport, then home.

And I have to admit something I’ve never once been able to say at the end of one of these.

I’m ready to go.

Every other cruise I’ve taken has ended with me dragging my feet up the gangway. The last day was always a countdown to reentry — back to the bills, the yard, dinner that doesn’t cook itself, the whole apparatus of being responsible for things.

Out here I got to be free and easy for a week. No clock. Nothing I had to achieve that I didn’t want to.

I have loved it. I’ve eaten more than I needed to and enjoyed every bite. Desserts. A couple of very good wines. Places I’ve never been. A whole lot of time staring at water, which I’ll be doing again in about an hour.

And I still want to go home.

What’s different is that there’s something waiting that I actually want.

I’ve spent this year working harder than I’ve worked in a long time, on purpose, on things that are mine. Which means home isn’t a pile of obligations this time. It’s a set of things I’m in the middle of and want to get back into the middle of.

I’m in the gym Sunday with my son. Monday morning I’ll get coffee, sit down, and start digging through what I’d conservatively estimate is five thousand emails. Then follow-ups with my team on what moved while I was gone, and figuring out what the next project needs from me.

None of that sounds like dread when I say it out loud. It sounds like Monday, and I’d like to get at it.

I’m not naive about how fast this turns.

It’ll be a grind again inside of two weeks. There will be a list, and deadlines, and people who needed something from me before I got back to my desk, and bills, and all the ordinary weight of a life. Restored is a temporary condition.

The stairs on this ship have also made a point I didn’t ask them to make. I’m in decent shape. I’m not in the shape I want. Something to work on.

Here’s the thing I keep coming back to, though.

I brought my mid-year review with me. I’ve been saying all week I’d open it on the last sea day, block out a couple of hours, sit somewhere quiet and figure out the back half of the year.

I never opened it.

My son wanted to do trivia in the theater. Then karaoke, where he got up and sang How to Save a Life and absolutely leveled the room — this kid who started out with an untrained ear, standing up in front of strangers and just owning it. I watched him meet people all week and turn into somebody more outgoing than I’ve ever seen him.

The review will still be there Sunday afternoon. It has kept for six weeks; it’ll keep two more days.

I would not trade one hour of that theater for it.

A Hundred Feet

~ David Willis ~ Leave a comment

Standing off the back of a ship at night in the middle of the ocean is the strangest feeling I know.

The deck lights throw a haze that hangs out over the water, a kind of halo, and inside it you can see about a hundred feet of wake — white foam churned up and rolling out behind you. Past that the light quits. The foam goes on for a while and then it’s just gone into black, and you have no idea how far down or how far out any of it goes.

It’s dark. It’s enormous. It’s the most powerful thing I’ve ever stood in front of and I could look at it for hours.

I’ve only been on the ocean a handful of times in my life. Every time I leave it I miss it more than I did before.

I’ve started to suspect we don’t come out here for the islands at all. The islands are wonderful and I’d go back to some of them tomorrow. But there’s a real chance we book these trips just to spend a few days out in the middle of the water with land nowhere in any direction.

There’s a parallel here about my life and I’ve been resisting it, because it doesn’t hold as cleanly as I’d like.

The easy version is that I love being out in the middle of things. Which is true — I like being in the thick of the work, in the middle of the struggle, some days with no clear idea where I am, and I’ve built a life that keeps me there most of the time.

But I also like the shore. A lot. I like knowing there’s a place I can get back to.

Anybody who tells you they only want one of those is selling something.

Every post I write ends up back at my faith, and this one gets there faster than most.

I believe in a God who spoke and there was a universe. Who said something on each of those days and something new existed that had never existed before, and who is, at a level I can’t get to the bottom of, an artist.

There’s a whole industry devoted to bringing people out here comfortably. Good food, entertainment, somebody making the bed. And all of that apparatus succeeded tonight in putting me in exactly one position, which was standing at a rail in the dark with my knees going out from under me, understanding how small I am.

I’m very small. The ocean is very large. And the God who made it is larger than the ocean.

Tomorrow’s a sea day and I’m going to sit down with the review I’ve been carrying and start planning the back half of my year.

I’ll be doing it on top of about three miles of water I can’t see the bottom of.

Tonight, though, I’m just looking at the wake. A hundred feet of it lit up, rolling away, and then nothing I can see at all.

Twenty Years

~ David Willis ~ Leave a comment

We got into St. Thomas at seven this morning and walked off not knowing what to expect.

It’s a small island and it feels smaller — tucked away, unhurried. People wanted our business but nobody put anything in our faces about it. We rode a gondola up to a lookout and stood there a while looking at the whole thing at once, then worked our way through shops up in the hills, including one where everything sold funds craftsmen paying for their own training.

What I noticed most was how the place sounded.

A woman from somewhere in the Northeast — not Boston but in that family, and I asked, because I wanted to know. Jamaicans. A man from the Dominican Republic. Several people from Japan. Forty thousand people live on that island and I heard a good spread of the world before lunch.

I love that. I have always loved that. Hearing where somebody’s from before they tell you is one of my favorite things about being anywhere.

We bought a few things from a woman running a shop, and she had an accent I couldn’t place except that it was European.

So I asked. She said Russia.

I told her I thought her accent was beautiful.

She told me she’d been in the United States for more than twenty years. And then she said that if there were an amount of money she could pay to be rid of it, she would pay it — and she put a word in front of “accent” that I’m not going to print.

Twenty years. Still carrying it, still hating it, and apparently not for the first time that day.

I tried to tell her what I actually meant. That I love hearing how people sound, that I love hearing what they think, that it had been the best part of my morning.

And then — I want to be honest about this, because it’s the part I keep turning over — I slipped into a bit of a Russian accent myself and told her that imitation was the sincerest form of flattery.

I meant it warmly. I have replayed it several times since and I don’t know how it landed. I hope I didn’t hurt her.

If I’d had longer, and if she’d wanted to hear it, here’s what I’d have said.

That accent isn’t a report on what she is. It’s a record of where she came from, and of every decision that took her from there to a shop on a small island a long way away. She chose a new country. She built something in it. All of that is in how she talks.

It ought to remind her of the distance she covered. Not of whatever she was trying to get away from.

That’s what I think, anyway. I got a receipt and a bag and about ninety seconds, and I don’t know the first thing about her life.

We had tacos at a little place on the island and they were excellent. Good morning, good island, and I’d go back tomorrow.

But I can’t get past that conversation.

I paid her a compliment in the only currency I had, and she couldn’t take it, because for twenty years the sound of her own voice has been something people rendered a judgment on.

Day Three

~ David Willis ~ Leave a comment

Somewhere on day three I started itching to get back after it.

Nothing was wrong. That’s the strange part. We’d eaten well and slept in and laid around and seen genuinely beautiful things, and I was lying there feeling lethargic and vaguely dissatisfied about something I couldn’t point at.

It took me a while to name it. It’s an expectation not being met — a low gnawing one, running in the background, that says a day is supposed to have something accomplished in it.

I miss the gym. I miss the feeling of making progress. Mostly I miss having my hands around what’s going on, guiding things where they’re supposed to go, knowing what today is for.

Here’s what I don’t miss, and it stopped me when I noticed it.

I have not been stressed in about five days.

Not lower stress. None. And that is such an unusual condition for me that I had to sit with it a minute to identify what I was even feeling. I’ve been running on some level of pressure for so long that its absence didn’t register as relief. It registered as something’s off.

Which tells me the itch on day three might not be about productivity at all.

The other thing I’ve noticed is that I didn’t actually stop.

I called this a full pause. I said the seven habits were coming off for the week and I meant it.

Except I’ve read my Bible every single day out here. I’ve written a blog post every day. The Bible pictures have gone out every day. Three of the seven have run the entire trip and I never once decided to do them — they just happened, the way brushing your teeth happens.

And I’ve gotten my steps every day without trying, because when you’re on one end of a ship and everything you want is on the other end, the geometry does it for you. Add an island where you don’t know where anything is and you’ll walk five miles looking for a shop.

What actually stopped was the gym and the counting. The two that need equipment and structure and a decision.

So the week has sorted my habits into two piles for me, which I did not ask it to do. Some of them are mine now. Some of them are still scaffolding.

There’s a list waiting when I get home. Lifting, the eating and water, walking, creative time. The rest of the music that needs to go up. Social platform work I’ve been putting off for months.

And this is where I catch myself, because I could write that list a lot longer and it would feel productive to do it. The truth is I don’t need a longer list. I need to know which two or three things on it actually matter, and I still haven’t done that work.

I’m saving the mid-year review for day six. There’s a sea day coming and the family will be occupied, and I’d rather take that time from the ocean than from them.

I thought this week would tell me that taking a vacation was a good idea.

It has told me that considerably more emphatically than I was expecting.